澳洲 - 大洋路之旅 Great Ocean Road, Australia

旅遊打工的日子，在連續三個月採收農作物的生活，隨著西洋梨的產季進入尾聲，恰巧也有朋友想要一起開車到大洋路，享受努力工作換來的美麗假期。於是收拾行囊，跟朋友一起驅車前往我夢寐以求的壯闊美景，讓我終於可以和我的DSLR沉浸在拍照的樂趣之中。

十二使徒岩(12 Apostles )，利用黑白照片呈現巨岩輪廓。

第一天傍晚抵達十二使徒岩。

傍晚時分的十二使徒岩。　

海水衝擊著岩石與石壁產生的水氣繚繞著巨石，更增添虛幻氛圍。十二使徒岩事實上並沒有１２座巨岩，圖中能看見的僅有５座，所以十二使徒岩僅僅是名稱而已。然而，隨著海水的沖擊與時間的消逝，如此獨特景觀究竟還能與大海抗衡多久；如上圖中靜躺在海面上的石塊即是在2005年7月3日禁不住海水沖刷而傾倒的巨岩。

利用Canon 17-40mm F4L超廣角鏡頭，更能呈現出地勢的寬闊與壯觀。

第一天的到訪算是場勘，探訪不同拍照角度，因為明天的大洋路單車行程才是此行重點。

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第二天主要行程
十二使徒岩(12 Apostles)巨岩風光。
吉布森石階(Gibson Steps)，走下Hugh Gibson沿著石壁修築的步道。
洛卡德峽谷(Loch Ard Gorge)，重回沈船現場。

起個大早，向 Hostle 租了台登山腳踏車，等天色全亮，檢查完車況，便從 Port Campbell 沿著 Great Ocean Road 馳騁在大洋路上，向東騎12KM即可至12 Apostles 和 Gibson Steps。

沿途路段上下起伏不斷，絕不像照片中的路面一般平坦；但來點挑戰會讓過程更有趣更難忘。這裡路不大，騎車或開車需特別注意安全。在這裡騎單車身心舒暢，右眺壯闊海景，左望平坦大地，前迎徐徐海風，後有來車請注意！

早晨的12 Apostles。

相對於傍晚時的光線，上午的光線能讓海水看起來更藍，巨石紋理更清楚，更有立體感。傍晚則是賞日落絕佳地點，可以看太陽隱沒在地平線下，想拍絕美日落的朋友得要提早來等待喔；基於安全考量，腳踏車出租時間僅限白天，所以我就沒辦法在這邊等拍日落了。

吉布森階梯(Gibson Steps)

19th世紀時由當地地主Hugh Gibson手鑿岩壁形成階梯，而成為附近一帶能夠通往海灘由低處仰望大自然鬼斧神工的絕佳景點，之後才改鋪設成水泥石階。

Gibson Steps 

走下階梯，沙灘上的倒影，映出石壁與巨石在經年累月下經過海水不停的侵蝕，形成熟悉卻又遙遠的距離。熟悉是因為彼此曾經相連；遙遠是因為不再有更靠近的可能。

利用遊客當比例尺，更能圖顯出巨岩的高大與雄偉。

從這個角度看，這塊巨岩很像有著堅挺鼻子和長下巴的人的側臉吧！

在這裡休息片刻，等月亮落在巨岩上方的位置拍下這張照片。

沿著階梯入口旁的Great Ocean Walk向前走，即可把Gibson Steps 的整片沙灘美景盡收眼底。

之後便跨上單車前往洛卡德峽谷(Loch Ard Gorge)。

洛卡德峽谷(Loch Ard Gorge)

自Gibson Steps向西行約4KM即可抵達。

此地名由來是因為在1878年，一艘名為Loch Ard的船隻，由英格蘭前往墨爾本的航行中，不幸在此發生船難。當時船上５４名乘客中，僅２人生還，一名是１５歲的航海學徒，另一名則是跟著家庭移居到澳洲的１７歲愛爾蘭女生，而這兩人最後就是在這片海灘上而獲救的。
Loch Ard Gorge，Loch在Scottish Gaelic 是湖泊的意思。

Island Archway 

中間的兩座巨岩本是相連而形成拱橋，但在2009年坍塌而形成獨立石柱。

背脊岩 The Razorback

Thunder Cave

在海水與岩壁的衝撞下發出如打雷般轟隆巨響而得名。


逛了一整天的著名景點後，悠悠哉哉的騎回Port Campbell還車休息一下，再到遊客中心詢問看日落的置高點。

Port Campbell的日落

在遊客中心服務員的介紹下，我一開始便沿著海岸邊的岩石步道走了2KM左右抵達照片中間右邊的位置，晃了晃，竟然週圍都被密布的樹叢遮住，沒有置高點可以看日落。遇到一對也是想來這邊看日落的澳洲中年夫妻，而我們都因為無法在這邊看到日落而決定返回Port Campbell。一路上相談甚歡，忘路之遠近，開啟了話題就停不下來，閒聊之下，先生之前居然是飛歐洲航線的機長，現在則是在享受退休生活，去年還跟太太到歐洲享受一週每天沿著海岸線健行３０ＫＭ的旅行。走到某處他突然停下，指著海面上的浮球告訴我，那是當地居民設置用來捕捉龍蝦的器材，我則開玩笑的回問他怎麼知道，是因為他晚上偷游泳過去那邊抓龍蝦嗎？在一個人的旅程中，能跟素不相識，但卻在打招呼之後能夠輕鬆交談互相交流，真的可以發自內心感覺到生命中的幸福感，彼此互不認識卻又被連結在一起的感覺。握手道別，我繼續趕著路另覓置高點欣賞日落。

打從第一晚住在Port Campbell，我就注意到夜晚的絢爛銀河，但卻沒能找到避開路燈光害的好地點。這次我趁著日落後，天色未暗，試圖往斷崖的方向前進尋找寂靜覷黑地點以避免路燈燈光影響。最後終於找到下圖中崖壁附近的安全平坦地區拍攝銀河。

日落餘光

晚上１０點獨自帶著露營椅、手電筒和攝影器材，穿著保暖衣物便前往拍攝夜景。

與銀河合照

剛踏入通往崖壁的路口，便被路燈照在地上的影子所吸引。索性把相機架上腳架，對銀河和影子進行長曝，得到第一次與銀河合照的畫面。

貝斯海峽上的銀河
(Milky way above Bass Strait ) 

銀河 X 星軌 X 月出
(Milky Way X Star Trail X Moon Rise) 

就在我進行長時間曝光拍星軌等待時，我坐在露營椅上仰望著星空，微風的夜晚，萬里無雲的天空，靜靜享受這絕美時刻，已是非常幸運。此時極遠處竟出現澄黃色燈光，我愣了一會才反應過來那竟是剛升起的月光；如果手機上裝有app,Google Sky Map更是拍攝風景的好幫手，可以查詢月亮、太陽位置，想拍攝星軌可以查看南極點(South Point)、北極點(North Point)位置，但因當時我沒有手機可以使用所以無法查詢；於是一等到長曝時間到６００秒的時候馬上結束星軌曝光改拍月出和銀河。

月出 X 銀河
( Moon Rise X Milky Way )

利用長焦段鏡頭捕捉月光照映海岸線的輪廓。

這兩天的大洋路之旅，除了在拍照前多花時間尋找拍照地點，隨身攜帶足夠水及食物之外，能有如此美好的天氣配合，我深感幸運。最重要的是，我選擇了自己想要的遊覽方式，利用騎單車和步行的方式，自己規劃行程，彈性掌握停留拍照時間，更能在記錄美麗風景之外，留下難以忘懷的回憶。


資料參考Lonely Planet (寂寞星球)16th edition及維基百科。

Sean Chang.CHC

Mar 3-4, 2013 Port Campbell, Great Ocean Road

My week in Sydney, Nov 21 - Dec 2

Nov 26 Trip to Blue Mountain.

Three Sisters, Blue Mountain 三姊妹岩, 藍山

Dramatic view from Echo Point Lookout, which is about a 30-min-walk from Katoomba train station.

Three Sisters.

Walking to the Top of Giant Stairway, then we are in the Three Sisters.
Then the wide-opening viewof Blue Mountain came to me

Blue Mountain cable car.

Blue Mountains.

Nov 28 Sparkling Sydney Opera House

Nov 29 The Rocks 

Cadman's Cottage, built in 1816, the oldest residential building in Sydney.

The Rocks.

The Harbour Bridge from Sydney Observatory. 

Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House. There were a lot of people joining bridge-climbing tour which cost about A$200 to enjoy wonderful sunset on the Harbour Bridge. 

Sydney Opera House from Royal Botanic Garden. 

Sydney Opera House from Royal Botanic Garden. 

Sydney Opera House from Royal Botanic Garden. 

Sydney city view from Royal Botanic Garden.

Art Gallery of NSW. Free admission !

免錢的美術館我當然不會放過囉, 

現在每到一個新城市最先開始逛的就是免費的美術館或是藝廊.

Christmas Tree was just lit up tonight, at Martin Place.

Town Hall, with light decoration through projector.

Sep 1-2, Byron Bay

I've always wanted to watch full moon rise on the horizon, I did go to beach a few times on full moon days, but the weathers were too cloudy. Finally, I planned this 2-day trip to watch full moon at the easternmost point of Australia mainland on the 1st day of September, and the sky was amazingly clear and beautiful.
Below is my walking route and wonderful view I saw, then you may be able to understand how excited I was at that moment.

On my way to Cape Byron Lighthouse, 

it was really joyful to walk in a afternoon with such beautiful golden light shining on the beach.

Cape Byron Lighthouse. 

Here we are !!! After a 40-mins walk and I didn't take many photos on the way, because I had to hurry up and spend more time here to get some photos before sunset. 

Cape Byron Lighthouse. 

Fantastic view of sunset! At that moment, I was standing in front of the lighthouse with many visitors watching the sunset.

Luckily, there was a boat on ocean and made a perfect element for composition. After the sunset, the day was not going to end but just start.

Just after 30 mins of sunset, the moon elegantly showed up on the horizon. In fact, the moon looks dramatically golden whenever it rises or sets in Australia. 

Moon rose on the South Pacific Ocean.

Even though this shot was not what I exactly saw, I could still see the full moon was bright enough to add magical color to the clouds, I found it really difficult to give full detail of moon and completely present the atmosphere due to the contrast of moon and clouds.

Moon rose on the South Pacific Ocean

This one is more like what I saw, but lack of details of moon. 

Cape Byron Lighthouse.

                                                       

Cape Byron Lighthouse.                                                       

I had came here 2 weeks ago, it was completely dark at night and perfect for star watching. I couldn't get detail of lighthouse and light beam at the same time, again, due to the contrast. That's why I planned to come again.

Day 2 route

First light of Sep 2.

Moonset before sunrise.                                                                                          

  Sunrise

                                                                       

Cape Byron Lighthouse 

                                                      

Golden Swamp Wallaby on the cliff.

                                              

The end of easternmost point

Wish I could swim with wild dolphins :)

Their appearance really surprised me, I thought they were there for breakfast because they stayed there at least 20 mins, so I had plenty of time watching them floating on the surface. 

Jumped at the Easternmost point of Australia mainland. 

Finally, I am going to share how I spent my night at the
lighthouse. It was a windy and chilly night,which was about 10 degree celsius but actually felt colder due to the winds, I had my sweater, gloves, windproof jacket, boots, hat, that could help me stand the chill. I lied down at a corner next to a bench outside a concrete building around 11 pm. I used my backpack as a pillow, then crossed my arms above my chest. However,I could only sleep for 1 hour then had to walk around the lighthouse to make my body warm. After that, I tried to take a rest again, but the chill kept me awake. Finally, it came to mind my mind that the only enclosed space in this area was toilet, and nobody would use it at night ! As a result, I sat on the clean toilet and took a nap for 2 hours till 5 am  and slept pretty well. 
It's really funny that I spent a few hours sleeping in a toilet, and I don't think I will do that again....unless....